It was our third day in Kashmir. After a wonderful and too-short stay in Sonmarg, we moved onto Gulmarg, the most famous hill station of Kashmir, thanks to the cable car to the top of the Affarwat peak. We had smartly (thanks to the hubby) booked our cable car tickets well in advance, and not depended on the make-my-trip team. Even smarter was booking the tickets for the next morning so that we would have a chilled day at Gulmarg. Thanks to the weather, that’s literally what we had!

The drive was yet another stunning drive past green fields and snowy mountains, back to Srinagar and then onto Gulmarg. The recent rains had left the fields even more green and lush than ever, and clouds flitted across the sky.

As we approached Srinagar, we drove across the river Jhelum.

Cherry season had just begun and people were selling boxes of luscious cherries on the roadside. We stopped and bought some of the best cherries we’ve ever had. Cloudy skies, green pastures, dark green trees, smooth roads, Arijit Singh and cherries were the recipe for a perfect road trip.

Adding to the natural beauty were the newly beautified and tarred roads from Srinagar to Gulmarg that were made into a smooth dual carriageway because of the recent G20 summit. Our driver told us that the drive was so much better because of the improved roads, and that the same route used to take 6 hours in the past.

Just before the ascent to Gulmarg, there is a small, picturesque town Tangmarg, filled with small stores renting gumboots and jackets to carry to the cable car, and a few hotels. A small detour goes to Drung village and waterfall, which gets totally frozen in winters, a sight I need to come back to see.

The ascent to Gulmarg is through pine trees that surround the cup-like depression that Gulmarg lies in.

We drove up curving roads with charming company.

As we drove higher, a layer of fog enveloped us. Cool wind blew in through the windows, clouds surrounded us and obscured the valley and the mountains around. We could barely see the road ahead and a few trees on either side. We leaned out of the windows, feeling a gentle drizzle on our cold cheeks. It was magical, like floating through the clouds.

I stayed in this happy state as we entered Gulmarg, even as I saw the huge crowds near the market area, as we drove to our charming hotel. Recommended by my brother-in-law, this quaint old hotel had stunning dark wooden decor, fireplaces, books around coffee tables and even, a vintage comments book!

I requested for a room with a view, feeling rather stupid, as I couldn’t see anything beyond 20 meters, and was given a lovely room looking over the meadow, with a couch to lay down and stare out of.

There was nothing to stare at however, all we could see was dense fog with patches of green in the background. Slightly disappointed, I unpacked and settled in, and looked out of the huge windows after a while and gasped. The clouds had shifted and we could see the green meadow with the beautiful snow-covered mountain range.

Excited by this, we quickly layered up and rushed out to see a sea of white again. We walked towards the markets, amidst the huge crowds of day trippers and their cars and vans, and ponies with their riders calling out for rides to the gondola station. The cacophony was unbearable in this gorgeous place. Desperate to get past this messy area, I rushed on, just to be pulled back by the hubby, who wanted to visit the temple that we’d seen from our room (red roofed structure above).

Reluctantly, the teen and I followed. The route to the temple was filled with slush and horse poop. We squeamishly walked through the agonizing road, struggling to keep our noses closed, eyes on the temple above and trying to avoid the poop, while the hubby grinned and swiftly made his way through.

Hungry by now, and desperate to get back to concrete, I rushed down past all the muck to reach the main market area. Fortunately, I had researched the restaurants in Gulmarg and we entered a cute cafe that would become our favorite haunt for the next two days, with some of the best hot chocolate I have ever had.

The kid had the same motto, so we stepped out of this cafe, into a neighboring dessert cafe with delicious cinnamon and chocolate buns and rolls.

This would end up being another standard haunt of ours. I must also admit that a major reason for us to be in the cafes was to be away from the freezing cold outside. Or so I consoled myself!

It was really tough to step out from the warm cafe into the terrible cold. Even though we were layered well, it just didn’t seem enough. While the kid and I shivered trying to get to stay warm, and thinking of getting to the hotel to get more jackets, the hubby rushed around trying to find softy icecream.

He roamed the entire length of the market but couldn’t find any softy. None of the (many) softy machine owners were running a softy machine as nobody would eat it in this rain and cold, but they hadn’t bargained for the hubby. Eventually, he bought a chocobar, that was frozen stiff.

We walked towards our hotel and on around the meadow. The meadow is encircled by an eight-kilometer road, with marvelous views, and I was keen on walking the entire route. Of course, I didn’t reveal this plan to the other two, as they would never have joined me.

It was very cold and there was really nothing to be seen. We were about to turn back when, once again, the clouds shifted, and we could see the snow-covered mountains all around us. We could also see the cable car pathway though we couldn’t see the peak it went up to. It was simply magical. Fat rain-laden clouds floated over the wet green meadow. It was pretty for words.

We could catch a glimpse of the Indian flag fluttering in the wind, far away on a pole. I wanted to head there, but soon, the hubby and teen ran out of patience and decided to turn back, and I walked on alone.

Hopeful of completing the entire outer ring walk, I plodded on. Soon, I reached the army cantonment where the flag was hoisted.

The road wound on and on. It didnt feel so cold anymore, just really special. There were no people here, such a far cry from the hustle and bustle of the market.

Standing across from where my hotel was, I could see the stunning Gulmarg laid out in front of me. I had just done one third of my planned walk but was sure I could carry on. However, within a few more minutes, the clouds blew in and settled over the meadow, covering everything around. Not much could be seen. A few cars zoomed by with headlights on full beam, the only reason I could see them. A few locals passed by, asking me how I was. As I walked further, visibility dropped to a few feet. It was very cold and very lonely. At that point, I decided to turn back and walk home.

Back in the hotel room, it was wonderful to feel warm again. We did step out later, for a delicious local dhaba dinner, and slept early as we needed to be at the cable car station early the next day.

That must have weighed on my mind when I woke up at 5 am for no reason at all. Wide awake, I looked out of the window and gasped. The rising sun cast a beautiful golden glow on the mountains, and I had to go out and see this view.

The start to this day was fabulous, as the rest of the day turned out to be. But that will continue in another post, as there are already too many pictures on this one.