We were completing a beautiful week in Kashmir in May 2023 during the teen’s summer holidays. Having experienced snow in Sonmarg (Kashmir-May 2023-Sonmarg), and Gulmarg (Kashmir-May 2023-Gulmarg II) and the beautiful valleys and marketplace of Pahalgam (Kashmir May 2023-Pahalgam II), we were driving back from the foothills to the big city of Srinagar. I was reluctant to bid goodbye to the lovely mountains and greenery.

It got sunnier and hotter as we drove towards Srinagar. Unfortunately, we got stuck in a military convoy. Our driver abused the country, the rulers, the policemen, till I got frustrated and plugged my earphones into my ears, and people-watched the neighboring cars. To my surprise, a steady stream of tiny ice-cream vans appeared out of nowhere to peddle their wares. Indians are truly THE most resourceful people.

The convoy slowed us down by almost an hour, by which time, it was terribly hot, and we were just desperate to get to our hotel. Fortunately, we drove through some green areas and saw a lot of fruit stalls, where we picked up delicious fruits for home.

Srinagar, though a large city, has its own charm. The lake occupies a huge portion of it, and it is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and boasts a number of beautiful parks and Mughal gardens, making it a very green (in this weather) city. It was further beautified for the G20 summit.

Our driver took us straight to the lake for boating. I was shocked as the afternoon sun was high in the sky, but I hadn’t accounted for the magic of water and mountains. The covered boat ride in the uncrowded lake with a gentle cool breeze made for a great afternoon.

The rower suggested sitting right out at the front of the shikara. I clambered over excitedly, feeling so close to the pretty lake.

Photos don’t convey the tranquility of this place. This was perfect timing, to row out with no one around. It felt like the lake was all ours. The teen lay back, trailing her hand in the waters.

And pulled out a perfect heart-shaped leaf from amidst the weeds.

I was surprised to see a lot less weeds than I remembered when I visited as a child in 1988. Then, the lake was so studded with weeds that it was difficult to move about. I had really disliked the lake back then. In 2023, a lot of weeds were removed in anticipation of G20, so I guess I was lucky this time, and I really loved the lake.

The next stop was at the most famous of all the Mughal gardens, the Nishat garden. We drove along the same road we’d walked down on our first day, and I was shocked by the chock-a-block traffic and the crowds. The shock was even more when we entered the gardens. Being a Sunday, the gardens were filled to the brim with both visitors and locals making the best of a bright and sunny day.

Nishatbagh means garden of bliss, and I could see why. The huge, terraced garden with a large central canal running through, and fountains lining the water channel, was beautifully landscaped and maintained. Flowers of all colors and types were arranged symmetrically.

We climbed higher and higher, up the terraces, all 12 of them, studded with lovely flowers. Everywhere we looked was a riot of colors. Across the central channel of water, there were small bridges to cross over to the other side or pose upon.

It saddened me to see that people were treating the garden as a pool. Not just small kids, but even older children and young adults were busy frolicking about under the small waterfalls. That was the point at which I got desperate to leave the gardens, gorgeous as they otherwise were.

It was very hot and sunny. Unused to the dry heat, especially after the freezing cold of Sonmarg and Gulmarg, we were desperate to get out. The crowds made it even worse. I now saw the logic of getting to this garden early in the morning, as soon as it opened.

We left the garden much earlier than planned, and then braved a ridiculous traffic jam to get to the next garden, the Shalimar Garden. Our driver had advised us not to go, but I had heard that it was the prettiest one, so we went there. Big big mistake as the garden was under renovation. Nearly everything was boarded up, the water bodies were dry, yet it was packed with people.

Sadly, it was an awful place to be at. I wish our driver had told us about the renovation, because we wouldn’t have bothered to go there then. Luckily, I have a yesteryear photograph of the garden in all its glory.

We rushed out and headed for the third (and last) garden on the agenda, the Chashmeshahi, but it took us more than 45 minutes in traffic to get near it, with no sign of the traffic easing out. We turned away and asked him to take us to the Shankaracharya temple where there’s a birds-eye view of Srinagar, but we were too late for the entry. For the first time, I was relieved not to have to do any more sight-seeing.

Happy to be back in the comfort and air-conditioning of our hotel, we rested our tired feet before heading out for the best experience of the day, a sunset stroll by the dal lake.

The hot sun set behind the mountains, and a cool breeze blew from the lake. Even though it was much more crowded than our magical first day in Srinagar, it was still charming. The cacophony of horns and the frequent fights amongst drivers of cars, rickshaws and motorbikes didn’t bother us much, though we missed the earlier silence.

We sat by the lake front, enjoying the colors change over the waters and watching the twinkling lights on the houseboats come on. We headed into our favorite patisserie and stocked up on pastries and tarts for the trip back.

The sun set and left behind a multitude of colors. This is my favorite part of sunset, after the sun has gone fully down.

As the lights came on, we saw a couple of the lit-up shikaras on the lake. This was a new change created for the G20 summit. I had only seen it in videos of the lighted shikaras and was very happy to see them in person.

Hungry, we headed for the Winterfell cafe, a GOT themed cafe, that I had read very good reviews of. It was certainly very well done up, with delicious food as well.

It was a beautiful walk back. I was oblivious to the crowds, the noise, the incessant honking. My last evening enjoying the breeze and lights on the lake was not going to be marred by things I am already used to at home!

We retired early, as we had an early flight the next morning, and were advised to reach the airport 3 hours in advance. We reached the freezing cold airport which was open to the elements but had packed all our warm clothes in our bags. I walked up and down to stave off the cold, when I came upon this lovely painting.

The flight from Srinagar to Delhi was as stunning as the way in. I bid my last goodbye to the Himalayas for a short while, sure that I would be back soon.

Overall, it had been a wonderful trip. We had seen and played in loads of snow. The flowers, trees, food and hospitality of Kashmir are unparalleled. Yes, the touts are unbearable, but some pains have to be tolerated for such beauty.

Kashmir truly had Europe-like beauty with great food. I will be back in the fall season for the beautiful autumn Chinar trees and in the depth of winter to experience snow everywhere. Sometime soon. Inshallah.