We had driven a long hot drive from Leh to Nubra valley the previous day, where we enjoyed a brief snow experience at Khardungla pass and a wonderful evening at the Hunder sand dunes (Leh Ladakh July 2022-Nubra valley). We had a delicious hot dinner at the resort, slept well and woke up feeling fresh for a long drive to Turtuk, a village close to the Siachen glacier and the border with Pakistan.

As everything in Ladakh, the drive to Turtuk was spectacular, in fact, much better than Turtuk itself. However, I was not to realise that till the end of the day. Turtuk had been propagated as a wonderful day excursion from Hunder, and I was looking forward to visiting this village reclaimed by India in the 1971 war.

A bright blue sky, clean gurgling glacial rivulets and scattered miniature chortens set the tone for the day. There was no one on the road for the most part, which tempted a really risky photograph.

The landscape was barren, with occasional villages in the few patches of green. All along, the river Shyok meandered somewhere near us, sometimes parallel to us, sometimes deeper below in the gorge as we drove along the higher mountain paths.

We drove ahead to a narrow path between the mountains, where the brilliant turquoise river roared deep below us.

We approached a bridge that crossed high above the river and saw many people standing there. Keen to see a good view, we were appalled to see them peering into the gorge to see a bus that had toppled over a few days ago into the river.

Saddened to see this cruel pairing of incredible beauty and tragedy, we hurriedly moved on. But one can’t stay pensive for too long on Ladakh roads, and especially not when a turn brings you to this visage.

The Ladakh Matterhorn reminded me of my Covid-canceled Zermatt trip, yet thrilled me. For where else would I see sand, turquoise river, multicolored barren mountains and the Toblerone mountain in one frame?

Shortly, we reached a beautiful memorial to the Siachen warriors. Set high on a mountain, a small museum showcased their difficult living conditions. Once again, we were humbled by the greatness and sacrifice of the Indian Army.

Tired by the heat, sobered by the last hour, we were relieved to reach Turtuk and then horrified to see the massive crowds. There was no parking available and our driver dropped us near a traditional house, where we would later hunt and hunt for him.

Traditional stone houses with wooden balconies are the hallmark of Turtuk, but nearly everything was crumbling and falling apart. We realized soon that Turtuk was created and pushed as a tourist destination to improve its income. The hot sunny day didn’t help dispel our disappointment either.

Supposed descendent of the Yabgo dynasty, this old gentleman told us stories of their heyday, before we toured his tiny traditional home filled with old dusty utensils and swords. The charming children however were the highlight.

By then, we were very hungry and thirsty. We rushed out and crossed the river to a newer and slightly better part of Turtuk to a cafe overlooking the river.

Not my feelings, just a good sign!

No need for a fridge when you have glacial water coming out of the mountainside! We even drank the refreshing cold water.

View of the bridge and river once we climbed higher. This region is fertile due to irrigation canals running through it, and grows plenty of fruits, vegetables and flowers.

Beautiful flowers in a cold desert!

It was nice to wander through thick patches of green surrounded by tall trees.

I would have wandered longer (as always), but the hubby and kid were bored (as always) and wanted to return, so we headed back and had an awful time trying to locate our driver. Back in the car, hubby and kid fell asleep while I admired some of the most amazing scenery possible.

I love donkeys, they are uber cute!

The gushing glacial blue rivulet joins the dull grey river at many areas along the way.

We were exhausted by the time we returned. Fresh apricots above our cottage cheered us up, as did a warm delicious meal. We slept early, in anticipation of an even tougher drive to the other border of Ladakh, one shared with China, to Pangong lake.

Turtuk was an epic failure of a visit, the only good thing we got from it was dry fruits. Yet, the drive there and back made our day. The deep blue skies, the shades of the mountains, the splashes of greenery and most of all, the shades of blue and grey of the river were captivating to say the least. Visit Turtuk for sure, but for the journey alone.