Category Archives: Leh Ladakh July 2022

Leh-Ladakh July 2022-Journey to the borders

We had driven a long hot drive from Leh to Nubra valley the previous day, where we enjoyed a brief snow experience at Khardungla pass and a wonderful evening at the Hunder sand dunes (Leh Ladakh July 2022-Nubra valley). We had a delicious hot dinner at the resort, slept well and woke up feeling fresh for a long drive to Turtuk, a village close to the Siachen glacier and the border with Pakistan.

*The blue path is Hunder to Turtuk and back, the green one is the drive the next day to Pangong lake*

As everything in Ladakh, the drive to Turtuk was spectacular, in fact, much better than Turtuk itself. However, I was not to realise that till the end of the day. Turtuk had been propagated as a wonderful day excursion from Hunder, and I was looking forward to visiting this village reclaimed by India in the 1971 war.

A bright blue sky, clean gurgling glacial rivulets and scattered miniature chortens set the tone for the day. There was no one on the road for the most part, which tempted a really risky photograph.

The landscape was barren, with occasional villages in the few patches of green. All along, the river Shyok meandered somewhere near us, sometimes parallel to us, sometimes deeper below in the gorge as we drove along the higher mountain paths.

We drove ahead to a narrow path between the mountains, where the brilliant turquoise river roared deep below us.

We approached a bridge that crossed high above the river and saw many people standing there. Keen to see a good view, we were appalled to see them peering into the gorge to see a bus that had toppled over a few days ago into the river.

Saddened to see this cruel pairing of incredible beauty and tragedy, we hurriedly moved on. But one can’t stay pensive for too long on Ladakh roads, and especially not when a turn brings you to this visage.

The Ladakh Matterhorn reminded me of my Covid-canceled Zermatt trip, yet thrilled me. For where else would I see sand, turquoise river, multicolored barren mountains and the Toblerone mountain in one frame?

Shortly, we reached a beautiful memorial to the Siachen warriors. Set high on a mountain, a small museum showcased their difficult living conditions. Once again, we were humbled by the greatness and sacrifice of the Indian Army.

Tired by the heat, sobered by the last hour, we were relieved to reach Turtuk and then horrified to see the massive crowds. There was no parking available and our driver dropped us near a traditional house, where we would later hunt and hunt for him.

Traditional stone houses with wooden balconies are the hallmark of Turtuk, but nearly everything was crumbling and falling apart. We realized soon that Turtuk was created and pushed as a tourist destination to improve its income. The hot sunny day didn’t help dispel our disappointment either.

Supposed descendent of the Yabgo dynasty, this old gentleman told us stories of their heyday, before we toured his tiny traditional home filled with old dusty utensils and swords. The charming children however were the highlight.

By then, we were very hungry and thirsty. We rushed out and crossed the river to a newer and slightly better part of Turtuk to a cafe overlooking the river.

Not my feelings, just a good sign!

No need for a fridge when you have glacial water coming out of the mountainside! We even drank the refreshing cold water.

View of the bridge and river once we climbed higher. This region is fertile due to irrigation canals running through it, and grows plenty of fruits, vegetables and flowers.

Beautiful flowers in a cold desert!

It was nice to wander through thick patches of green surrounded by tall trees.

I would have wandered longer (as always), but the hubby and kid were bored (as always) and wanted to return, so we headed back and had an awful time trying to locate our driver. Back in the car, hubby and kid fell asleep while I admired some of the most amazing scenery possible.

I love donkeys, they are uber cute!

The gushing glacial blue rivulet joins the dull grey river at many areas along the way.

We were exhausted by the time we returned. Fresh apricots above our cottage cheered us up, as did a warm delicious meal. We slept early, in anticipation of an even tougher drive to the other border of Ladakh, one shared with China, to Pangong lake.

Turtuk was an epic failure of a visit, the only good thing we got from it was dry fruits. Yet, the drive there and back made our day. The deep blue skies, the shades of the mountains, the splashes of greenery and most of all, the shades of blue and grey of the river were captivating to say the least. Visit Turtuk for sure, but for the journey alone.

Leh Ladakh July 2022-Nubra valley

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We had spent 48 hours acclimatising to the rarefied air of Leh as we’d flown into Leh directly. Surprisingly, I had thoroughly enjoyed these days of relatively less travel, especially as the next 5 days would be long road journeys through the tough terrain of Ladakh. We left early this day (as we would on all the following days) to reach Hunder in the Nubra valley via the high pass of Khardungla.

*Last view of Leh as we ascend the mountains towards Khardungla pass*

Within 10 minutes of leaving Leh, we started our ascent towards Khardungla. Switchback after switchback we ascended, meeting no traffic on the way, and soon spotting the jagged mountains around the pass.

*Far in the distance was the Khardungla pass*

*Beautiful roads on a harsh terrain, courtesy the BRO*

Swiftly, we reached the pass and parked there, hoping for some snow at least. Sadly, most of the snow had melted and we only saw a glacier with a small area with old frozen snow to play in.

*We could only reach the small area of snow where a few people can be seen*

*We couldnt resist a picture at this really high medical post, meant to aid people with altitude sickness*

Up a few steps, was a prayer monument. Those steps weren’t easy to climb, but we sure huffed and puffed our way up!

*The hubby races us up the rickety steps*

*The beautiful Khardungla gompa, serene despite the crowds*

*The stark mountains seen in the distance through the fluttering prayer flags*

Contrast this warm barren Khardungla with a white, snow-covered freezing cold pass 2 months ago when my brother-in-law had travelled. Ladakh is amazing in all seasons!

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar of the steps leading to the gompa, cleared off the snow*

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar, with snow covering every part of Khardungla*

There isn’t much to do here other than click the customary pictures with the “Khardungla Top” sign, but the line to click pictures was too long. Thinking that the bikers certainly deserved this picture far more than us, we head off from the pass and began our descent, and saw small pockets of snow that were accessible.

*Snow is snow for us city people, even if a little dirty and not too fresh!*

*Our amazing driver through the trip, Mr Namgyal*

*A few turns after descending from Khardungla, where just 2 months earlier, my brother-in-law experienced fresh snowfall*

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar, just 2 months before my trip*

It’s a very long drive from Khardungla to Hunder, where we would stay in the Nubra valley. We would ascend and descend several mountains, and the curved roads were nauseating to say the least. We certainly were happy to cross over a bright blue mountain spring and get out of the car.

*Crystal-clear cold water that we filled our bottles with!*

We would cross many such springs over the next few days, and their sparkling color and force never ceased to amaze me. By this time, it was very hot and sunny. All we could see were barren mountains around us.

*Ridges made by melted snow lined the mountains*

*At some places, the mountains appeared as if they had been cut into*

We were tired and hungry, but there was no decent lunch spot to be seen. Finally, after ages, our driver stopped at a lush green spot amidst the brown of the mountains. An oasis of food!

*This oasis was run by an enterprising man, who had several activities like shooting, zorbing, river rafting and riverside camping*

*The teen found a donkey she wanted to pet*

After a fresh, delicious lunch of dal and roti (no pictures, we were too hungry!), we set off once more, now running parallel to the Shyok river. We would come by this route again, on our way to Pangong lake, but for now we drove northwards, along the silt-laden river.

*2 rafts were seen in the river, but i was amazed by how the 3 jeeps got onto that little island*

Just before the oasis of Hunder, we saw the stunning sand dunes. Beautiful beige-white, perfectly undulating dunes of sand, with a backdrop of green poplars and barren mountains, a few topped with snow, were breath-taking.

*One could be mistaken this for an Arabian desert!*

It was too hot and sunny, and we were tired out by the long drive. We went to the resort first and rested a while.

*Individual cottages with piping hot water in the midst of a cold desert*

*Delicious fresh apricots for the plucking just above our cottage!*

We were surprised to learn thta Nubra valley shuts down in the winter months. All the resorts and camps are closed, the furniture packed away and stored, with layers of plastic wrapping, only to be reused once spring arrives. The cold desert is deserted.

Refreshed after a small nap (and a bath), we set off in the evening to the sand dunes. By now, the weather was cooler and the sun was no longer roasting us. Small patches of water en-route provided for beautiful reflections.

A small stream flowed along the edge of the dunes, that we had to cross over to get to the sand.

*People sat by the edge of the water and dangled their legs in the cool stream*

*One of the many rickety bridges to cross the stream*

Photographs do not do Ladakh justice, nor do videos. One has to be there and feel the gentle wind, see the sun setting behind the mountains, and dig their feet in the soft sands.

*The hubby was fascinated by how the dunes formed along the course of the Shyok river*

*The mountains cast long shadows on the sand, making this area a very comfortable on indeed!*

This area is known for the Bactian two-humped camels, that were first brought into the valley in order to carry goods on the Silk Route. Now, they’re a local money-making enterprise for joyrides for visitors.

*Groups of camels set off in a row to the farther areas of the dunes*

Anti-animal-abuse me refused to get onto a camel, but the kid was tempted after seeing them. However, the camels were so overbooked that no further reservations were taken. Camel rides in Nubra are like Michelin starred restaurants!

We returned to our hotel early and had a delicious dinner of yellow dal, alu sabji and hot rotis. It’s a privilege to have electricity and fresh food in such a remote far-flung location. The power of tourism is truly strong.

We slept early, knowing we had another long drive to Turtuk the following day, with sweet dreams of the beautiful sand dunes.

Leh Ladakh July 2022

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It’s been a long time since this trip, and much has changed in my life since then. My daughter has gotten into medical school, I’ve traveled to Kashmir, lost a beloved family member and my health and fitness. Yet, better late than never, I recollect a beautiful trip to the far northern end of India, the stunning raw union territory of Leh and Ladakh.

At the time that we traveled to Ladakh (July 2022), it was almost 3 years since my last trip, thanks to the Coronavirus and all its merry mutations. My brilliantly planned Italy trip after my teen’s grade 10 exams got canceled and replaced by tiny local trips over the next 2 years, while Covid kept rearing its ugly head now and again.

So, when most of the threat of Covid died down in March 2022, I actually dared to plan a holiday as soon as the teen’s medicine preparatory exams would end. The insecurity about the actual date of the exam (which had been postponed umpteen times), the world state, lack of a valid passport for the teen and of course, the hubby’s disgust for international travel made it possible to only short-list an Indian holiday. Once again, there was chaos and fights. The hubby and teen wanted to chill in Goa, I wanted a longer travel. Finally, I won and once again, set about painstakingly planning. July end being smack in the midst of Indian monsoons, we chose to travel to a place in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, the land of high passes, Leh and Ladakh.

That’s the story of how we got Leh’d. It was fairly easy to plan as most Ladakh trips follow a set travel route and my brother-in-law and friend had just been there. Of course, I have a penchant for overthinking, overplanning, etc, so it took a bit longer than it should have.

We paid extra for refundable tickets and hotels and then forgot about the trip till the date of the exam, as we were leaving that very night. Obviously, there was a lot to do that night till our flight at 3am, including packing, coloring hair and dealing with an angry teen, who just realized that instead of finally getting to sleep, she was staying up all night to catch a flight.

Luckily, one can’t stay grumpy too long when the sun rises to show the most outstanding views.

*The first sight of the snow-capped mountains that we’d see for the rest of the trip*

*Mountains, the sun and glacial rivers on the plains*

The landing at Leh airport was a narrow strip between tall mountain ranges and I marveled at the skill of the pilot who expertly and smoothly steered us to a clean landing. We exited swiftly and were outside the airport at the bright hour of 6 am.

Picked up on time, we left the airport to the bluest sky I have ever seen. This stunning blue stayed constant through our trip. We also were surrounded by dry dusty plains, poplar and willow trees in between, rivers and rivulets and tall barren mountains, some topped with snow, throughout our journey through Ladakh.

Our pretty hotel was representative of the architecture throughout Leh city. As we flew directly into Leh, it was mandatory to acclimatize to the high altitude and thin air by staying 48 hours in Leh.

*Beautiful lawn in our hotel, where we ate daily despite the cold in the morning and the night*

*The happiest part of the teen’s day was petting this forever hungry cutie and feeding him her jammy bread and roti*

*Ornately carved tables and door frames and thick carpets are typical of Leh*

The ceiling lights caught my attention, but not for long, as I fell asleep pretty soon. We spent most of our first day sleeping, but by evening we were bored and decided to take a small walk outside our hotel.

*Prayer wheels in these pretty colors were* *everywhere*

We saw the Shanti stupa in the distance and thought of walking till there, but soon realized it was very far and at quite an elevation.

*The lit up white dome of the Shanti stupa behind the electric wire*

Returning back, a movement high up in the mountains caught our eye. A pair of cyclists had reached the top of the mountain and were setting off on their way back. Ladakh is truly an adventure seekers dream!

A hearty meal and a good night’s rest later, we were set to go local sightseeing in Leh. This too has a set pattern of Hall of Fame, Gurudwara Paththar Sahib, magnetic hill and the Sangam of rivers Indus and Zanskar.

*A transformer-like structure captured my attention on the way*

The Hall of Fame is a museum built to honor the soldiers of the Kargil war. It’s a moving experience to see the tough conditions in Kargil, and the pictures and names of those we lost there.

Right outside the museum is this serene statue of the Buddha, with a message, “It is better to conquer yourself than to win a thousand battles.” So true.

*An unusual mask that caught my lens in the museum*

From there, we drove on to the gurudwara. It was a stunning drive on long empty roads with the tall mountains alongside, interspersed with tiny areas filled with trees.

Leh and Ladakh is all about the journey. Sure, the destination is good too, but the drive is much better. As we drove to the gurudwara, we ascended a little and came upon this amazing viewpoint.

It took a while to reach the gurudwara, but it was a stunning road and gurudwara. I love these quieter places of worship much more than temples. This gurudwara is operated by the army personnel, is spotlessly clean and serves the most delicious sheera as you exit.

From there, we went to the very over-hyped magnetic hill, that was not even worth the long drive

Even though this day’s itinerary was “local” Leh sightseeing, it took the better part of the day as all the distances were large.

*How small are we in nature? We’re but tiny specks on the planet*

A short drive later, we reached the viewpoint over the Sangam (union) of the rivers Indus and Zanskar. The Indus (also called Sindhu), which originates in Tibet, was where the great ancient Indus valley civilization began. We stayed by it during our later trip to Kashmir, when we visited Sonmarg (Kashmir-May 2023-Sonmarg). The Indus is joined by the Zanskar at this Sangam point in Leh, where the two differently colored streams are seeing merging into each other.

*The light green Indus merges with the muddy larger faster Zanskar*

The rivers have different colors at different times of the year. When my brother-in-law visited in May, the Indus was stunning turquoise green.

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar, taken just 2 months earlier, with such a clear difference between the two rivers*

The rivers freeze completely in winters, when the famous Chadar trek takes place over the Zanskar river. But in the summers, the flow in both rivers is strong because of the melting glaciers. In fact, river rafting takes place just a few kilometers ahead of this Sangam.

We drove along the Indus to get to the Sangam at the river level.

*Note the color of the river and the beautiful bridge over it.*

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar. The same Indus and the same bridge in May just 2 months before my travel*

The bridge was too pretty to resist getting to, so we drove ahead of the Sangam point to get to it.

The Sangam point was crowded with tourists and hawkers. It’s amazing how we Indians can turn a 50-meter area into a tourist destination!

*The hubby wanted to experience the Sangam from closer! The junction of the two rivers is much tougher to appreciate from up close.*

*Pic courtesy Ravi Thapar. My sister-in-law at a the same place with the clearly demarcated Sangam of the rivers*

*So many hawkers were selling beaded necklaces and souvenirs*

*While I was diverted by necklaces, the hubby was allured by the rocks in the fast swirling waters!*

Exhausted by the heat, we had a wonderful lunch at a lovely cafe in the marketplace, that my brother-in-law had loved on his trip and would become a staple choice for us as well.

*Chilled watermelon juice after hours under the sun was a great start to the meal*

*The view of the pedestrian-only main market street from the cafe* *with Namgyal monastery in the distance*

*Interesting posters lined the walls of the cafe and the building*

After a delicious meal, we headed to the hotel to sleep. We stepped out in the evening to go to the Shanti Stupa, near our hotel. The beautiful white Stupa, built on a small hillock, had a lovely cafe with views over the city of Leh.

*The white domed Stupa was very crowded*

We stayed till the sun set, watching the different colors of the sky and the lights come on in Leh and on the Stupa itself.

*The twinkling city of Leh surrounded by mountains*

*Different colored lights are projected on the Stupa*

We walked down to our hotel and enjoyed a hearty supper and slept early, for we had to wake early the next day to travel to Nubra valley. We would spend 2 nights there and a lot of hours traveling but enjoyed that experience thoroughly too.

Travels of the self and the mind

my trips, my thoughts, my dreams

Category Archives: Leh Ladakh July 2022

Leh-Ladakh July 2022-Journey to the borders

Leh Ladakh July 2022-Nubra valley

Leh Ladakh July 2022