We had already spent a fabulous day in the lovely hamlet of Gulmarg (Kashmir-May 2023-Gulmarg) and I had woken early to see a stunning sunrise over the mountains. It was too pretty not to step out and so I had rushed out to walk along the path I had seen the previous day. The golden snow on the mountains and the beautiful meadow with the dark green pine trees were worth bearing the biting cold.

After a heavy breakfast and lots of layers, we started to walk down to the cable car station. The cable car was called a gondola here, not a cable car, perhaps because it’s built on a continually rotating system. The initial half kilometer walk to the station was very irritating as numerous cabbies, salesmen, guides, pony owners and what-have-you heckled us non-stop. The teen desperately wanted to ride a horse, but we chose to walk instead so we’d feel warmer.

After walking for what seemed like forever, we reached the cable car entry point with no lines at all as we were so early. My friend who’d been here the year before, had warned me to reach very very early or get stuck in a three-hour queue and I had followed her advice to the T. Sage advice indeed, as the crowds we saw on our return proved.

The gondola doesn’t really stop, it just slows down, and you hop in, and the doors shut. A little frightening for me, but there was no other option. Up to the first level, called phase 1, we saw no snow at all. We weren’t sure whether we would be able to go up to the highest level (phase 2, where all the snow is) because of the fog. As we got off at the phase 1 level, we saw a host of restaurants and a tiny line for phase 2.

The snow at this level was really far off in the distance. Now we could understand the need for the gum boots, because you have to walk through the slush to end up reaching The Dirty Old Snow. We felt really lucky that we had tickets for phase two. And my greedy heart desperately prayed that the gondola would work till the top.

After almost an hour, the gondolas started moving from phase 1 to phase 2. The (now very long) line gave a collective cheer. We still couldn’t get on, as we had to wait for the gondolas to return, that took a really long time too. We killed our time chatting with a young couple who’d traveled on an Enfield bike to the Gurez valley and praised it no end. Seeing their pictures, I was really inspired to plan a visit to the lesser explored regions of Kashmir.

Finally, we got into the gondola to phase 2. I was really excited, and a little scared as I don’t like cable cars or heights. Luckily, visibility was poor, so I couldn’t see how high we were. But what I could see was a glimpse of pure white snow right at the top, and then the clouds enveloped us till we reached the top.

As we got off, the first thing to hit us was the bitter cold. Even with layers of thermals, sweaters and warm jackets meant for zero-degree temperature, we froze. Rather, the teen and I froze. The hubby cooly sauntered about with a single jacket. The second thing was the amount of white snow all around. It had snowed here the previous night when it was raining in Gulmarg and the result was sheets of fresh glistening-white snow. A dream come true!

Unsurprisingly, our reactions to what we saw matched our basic personalities. I ran around, jumping with joy and behaving like a 5-year-old. The teen walked about elegantly and posed like a lady for pictures.

And the hubby? Well, he was busy being, the hubby.

Shortly, the teen got tired of behaving all lady-like and decided to have some fun. We ran about, pelted each other with snow and made a ridiculous-looking snowman. Inspired by the snow-owl of Sonmarg (Kashmir-May 2023-Sonmarg), we gave him my sunglasses for a while.

As in all tourist areas in Kashmir, a huge number of locals started asking us if we wanted photographs, or if we wanted to go skiing or sledding, or if we would like to go and see the Line of Control. This time, we were better experienced. We politely said, “No, thank you,” to everyone and continued having our fun in the snow, something I couldn’t enjoy in Thajiwas glacier of Sonmarg.

The teen and I lay down in the snow, ate it, and made snow angels. The hubby did what he loves the best, taking some weird selfie on top of a small rock.

A little bit of the mist moved away, and we could see the beautiful snow-covered mountains in the distance. As the fog moved on further, we could see that the trees lower down and the snow at a higher level. It was stunningly beautiful. The clouds kept floating past, adding to the beauty.

I leaned against a rock, staring at the landscape around me. Most of my trips to mountain peaks had been filled with fog, clouds and rain. Very rarely, did I get a clear view of the snow-covered mountains I loved so much. This was truly paradise for me. And to find it a mere few hours away from home, even better! I just stood there, letting it all sink in, unbothered by the cold, the sun, the people, anything at all.

Suddenly, the hubby’s voice snapped me out of my reverie. The smart young couple we had come up with had mobilized us all to go tandem skiing. Even though we’d decided not to give in to any more tourist scams, this was too tempting (and cheap, thanks to the smart couple!). And so, we set off, behind the ski instructors, to a spot fairly far off from the main area.

This area was even more beautiful than the previous one we were at, the numbers of people were far fewer. The entire floor seemed like a carpet of fresh, soft snow. It was difficult to walk on, but once we learned to wedge our feet in, we were able to do it.

By now, the sun was out in full force. Our sunglasses didn’t seem enough. The clouds had shifted away and spread out in front of us, were stunning snow-covered peaks.

The sun finally got to us. The kid started feeling very uncomfortable, and we reluctantly got pulled back by sleds to the crowded area near the gondola. Now, the crowds were huge. We wanted to leave because of the direct blazing sun and the crowds, but also stay and have a little more fun in the snow. We were quite hungry too. Just then, we saw a makeshift shed with the trademark dirty blue plastic cover selling coffee, hot chocolate and Maggi, all under shade. What more can one ask for at 13000 feet?

Feeling a tad better, we stepped out. Once again, the sun really hit us. We tried to walk ahead and play in the snow but were too exhausted and uncomfortable. So, we walked back to the gondola station.

Waiting in the long queue to go down from phase 2, we saw a signboard that we couldn’t believe.

Just within the gondola station was a small counter manned by our favorite Gulmarg cafe owners, and we had to stop and have their pizza. It was certainly delicious, but by then, my headache was too severe to enjoy anything, and I just wanted to get back to the hotel. So, the other two hurriedly ate their pizza and we rushed back down as soon as the long lines would allow us.

Fortunately, neither of them wanted to stop at the intermediate level. By now, I was feeling very sick and the hubby was quite worried about me. For some reason, he thought that I had an intestinal perforation or gangrene, that I was sure I hadn’t. It was only when I got down and felt better after half an hour, that I realized that I might have had acute mountain sickness.

The teen and I wanted to take a cab back to the hotel, but the hubby forced us to walk back (lucky that I didn’t have a perforated intestine!). It turned out to be a good move as the fresh air, the now-cloudy skies and the beautiful meadow helped me feel a lot better than would have a ride in the crazy honking cabs driving at Formula-one track speeds.

After some delicious desserts from the market and rest in the room, the teen and I wanted to head out. The hubby was horrified that his “dying” spouse was now raring to go. Funnily enough, I felt perfectly well and was all set to explore all of Gulmarg. Unfortunately, after some delicious hot chocolate, it started pouring, and the hubby and teen refused to accompany me on my walk around Gulmarg.

So, I set out alone, a little miffed with them, unknowing that the next few hours would be some of the best ever.

Determined today to complete the outer ring road walk, I walked on quickly on the same path as the previous day, but speed was simply not possible, as every few minutes, I had to stop and stare around me.

The rain was gone, and the clouds retreated to the distance. The sun was sinking behind the Affarwat range. Every few steps provided a different view, a different set of colors and never-ending beauty.

My irritation at being left alone was long gone. I felt privileged to be alone in this little piece of paradise. The cool breeze, the greens the blues and the greys around me, the complete silence, the fabulous views everywhere I looked, all made me feel so calm, so peaceful and so happy.

The meadow glowed golden with the dark grey rain clouds behind. It was simply magical. Sunbeams shone onto patches of dark green pine trees and reflected off from rain puddles. A group of horses clopped past me, carrying people too tired or lazy to walk, not knowing what they were missing.

I could see a dense forest of pine trees on either side, with the road cutting through. A stream came from higher up and made its way under my road, gurgling along. There was no one to be seen for miles around and nothing to be heard other than the water, the birds and my own breath.

The reassuring sight of the Affarwat range convinced me that I was on the right track and would soon reach the gondola station and the Gulmarg golf course.

By the time I reached my hotel, the hubby and teen were frantically looking out of the window for me. I had walked more than 8 km at a stretch, so naturally I took ages to get back. Unused to walking so much, I was tired, yet rejuvenated. I was so happy that I still can’t find words to describe that feeling of that day.

This walk will count as one of the best travel experiences I have ever had. Even today, sitting in my concrete tower, I can see that meadow and smell the fresh and clean air of Gulmarg. Some things are not to be forgotten.

So ended our 2 days in Gulmarg. Gulmarg was a place I went to with zero expectations. In my childhood trip to Kashmir, both Sonmarg and Gulmarg had been terribly disappointing. I found both outstanding on this trip, though Gulmarg stood out because of the fabulous snow experience at the mountaintop and the outer ring road walk.

I will certainly return to Gulmarg, hopefully in the winter, for the snow. Maybe in the summer, for the lupines. Actually, any time, just to walk this road again.