We had spent 48 hours acclimatising to the rarefied air of Leh as we’d flown into Leh directly. Surprisingly, I had thoroughly enjoyed these days of relatively less travel, especially as the next 5 days would be long road journeys through the tough terrain of Ladakh. We left early this day (as we would on all the following days) to reach Hunder in the Nubra valley via the high pass of Khardungla.
Within 10 minutes of leaving Leh, we started our ascent towards Khardungla. Switchback after switchback we ascended, meeting no traffic on the way, and soon spotting the jagged mountains around the pass.
Swiftly, we reached the pass and parked there, hoping for some snow at least. Sadly, most of the snow had melted and we only saw a glacier with a small area with old frozen snow to play in.
Up a few steps, was a prayer monument. Those steps weren’t easy to climb, but we sure huffed and puffed our way up!
Contrast this warm barren Khardungla with a white, snow-covered freezing cold pass 2 months ago when my brother-in-law had travelled. Ladakh is amazing in all seasons!
There isn’t much to do here other than click the customary pictures with the “Khardungla Top” sign, but the line to click pictures was too long. Thinking that the bikers certainly deserved this picture far more than us, we head off from the pass and began our descent, and saw small pockets of snow that were accessible.
It’s a very long drive from Khardungla to Hunder, where we would stay in the Nubra valley. We would ascend and descend several mountains, and the curved roads were nauseating to say the least. We certainly were happy to cross over a bright blue mountain spring and get out of the car.
We would cross many such springs over the next few days, and their sparkling color and force never ceased to amaze me. By this time, it was very hot and sunny. All we could see were barren mountains around us.
We were tired and hungry, but there was no decent lunch spot to be seen. Finally, after ages, our driver stopped at a lush green spot amidst the brown of the mountains. An oasis of food!
After a fresh, delicious lunch of dal and roti (no pictures, we were too hungry!), we set off once more, now running parallel to the Shyok river. We would come by this route again, on our way to Pangong lake, but for now we drove northwards, along the silt-laden river.
Just before the oasis of Hunder, we saw the stunning sand dunes. Beautiful beige-white, perfectly undulating dunes of sand, with a backdrop of green poplars and barren mountains, a few topped with snow, were breath-taking.
It was too hot and sunny, and we were tired out by the long drive. We went to the resort first and rested a while.
We were surprised to learn thta Nubra valley shuts down in the winter months. All the resorts and camps are closed, the furniture packed away and stored, with layers of plastic wrapping, only to be reused once spring arrives. The cold desert is deserted.
Refreshed after a small nap (and a bath), we set off in the evening to the sand dunes. By now, the weather was cooler and the sun was no longer roasting us. Small patches of water en-route provided for beautiful reflections.
A small stream flowed along the edge of the dunes, that we had to cross over to get to the sand.
Photographs do not do Ladakh justice, nor do videos. One has to be there and feel the gentle wind, see the sun setting behind the mountains, and dig their feet in the soft sands.
This area is known for the Bactian two-humped camels, that were first brought into the valley in order to carry goods on the Silk Route. Now, they’re a local money-making enterprise for joyrides for visitors.
Anti-animal-abuse me refused to get onto a camel, but the kid was tempted after seeing them. However, the camels were so overbooked that no further reservations were taken. Camel rides in Nubra are like Michelin starred restaurants!
We returned to our hotel early and had a delicious dinner of yellow dal, alu sabji and hot rotis. It’s a privilege to have electricity and fresh food in such a remote far-flung location. The power of tourism is truly strong.
We slept early, knowing we had another long drive to Turtuk the following day, with sweet dreams of the beautiful sand dunes.
